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<title>Apparel Data Feed</title>
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<item>
<title>Shop Fitting & Store Design</title>
<link>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/shop-fitting-store-design/203/</link>
<guid>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/shop-fitting-store-design/203/</guid>
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What ideas have you implemented with some of your clients to help revent shrinkage?Glen Wilkin-Holland, Purfex: “As we manufacture here in New Zealand we are also able to repair, restore and repaint mannequins forms and in these difficult times while there may be a smaller budget for new display stock a lot of people are finding that they can upgrade existing mannequin stock by repainting or repairing at a fraction of the cost of buying new. While some clients have always had a maintenance schedule for their mannequins more people are realising that to keep them looking new for longer one needs to repaint etc to keep the standard up. With a return to the use of mannequins with or without heads this means that there is more out there needing this updating service. Also when repainting or restoring you can change colours, makeup, wigs etc so that not only do you have your stock restored to as new they can also be updated with a new look or colour – really it’s a form of up-cycling which New Zealanders are embracing with gusto.mei + picchi: “One of the best ways to prevent shrinkage is to maximise your view of the store with clear sightlines, ensuring you maintain visual contact with your customers at all times. We often recommend to our customers that they ensure racks and floor units are not too tall for this reason. It is best to use taller fixtures against walls and windows where your view of the store is not obstructed, yet you can still display longer garments and larger products effectively. Keeping aisles and walkways clear is also effective in preventing shrinkage as it allows staff and customers to pass one another freely and eliminates tight, hidden areas and corners.”Zayne Francis, Sphere: “Retail loss figures can be scary, no one wants to throw money away and everything that walks out of your store unpaid for is money from your pocket. Putting time and effort in when planning your store interior will minimise this loss. There is a lot more to take into account than just putting in an expensive security system. Product placement and layout is where this should start. We have worked with many retailers amending existing and planning new store layouts with not just visual aesthetics but security in mind, a beautiful store may look fantastic but when you’re having all your stock stolen is it really worth it? Staff training also plays a large part; good staff with good customer service skills is always great for your business but also a strong deterrent to shoplifters. Many stores employ mystery shoppers and there alike, many would be shocked to know what they can remove from a store undetected and to see this piled up on your counter can make your heart miss a beat!]]></description>
<pubDate>25-02-2010</pubDate>
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<title>Streamline & Revitalise</title>
<link>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/streamline-revitalise/202/</link>
<guid>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/streamline-revitalise/202/</guid>
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Thinking of giving your shop fit out and displays a facelift? The time is now to rethink, refresh and revamp if you want to keep ahead of the game. We explore the solutions to all those merchandising problems with the industry leaders.Despite reports of consumer confidence lagging behind pre Christmas season 2009, retail sales remained surprisingly upbeat over the holiday period, with retail sectors worldwide designing initiatives to encourage consumers to keep spending. With this in mind, shop fitting and store display specialists have worked hard to ensure that their offerings have been re-inspired for a new decade. In a recent online survey in the UK, the general consensus amongst retailers was highlighting the lifestyle aspects of their brands but keeping store layouts simplified with wider aisles and wider merchandise selections, providing customers with a shopping experience that is clutter free, convenient, time efficient and stress free.A time to customise and refresh Customising and refreshing will be two areas for retailers shop fitting &amp; store design Thinking of giving your shop fit out and displays a facelift? The time is now to rethink, refresh and revamp if you want to keep ahead of the game. We explore the solutions to all those merchandising problems with the industry leaders. to focus on in 2010. Glen Wilkin-Holland from the experts at Purfex know this only too well with their unique repair and revamp services on mannequins, giving new life to tired mannequin display units as well as offering fabric covered mannequins which can be tailored to a designers key print each season, or a stores’ d&eacute;cor. “There are new forms always being developed and added to that perennial favorite the Tailors Collection, with new ¾ forms being added in both size 10 and 18 this year, apart from the customised forms that sometimes come into common use” he says. “We are also looking to launch another range of mannequins this year called Glamour, which as the name implies, is sophisticated and glamorous and is great for evening wear or special occasion wear.”Surestyle creative retail interiors based in Otahuhu Auckland also agree that the cyclical period when stores need to refresh is timely for 2010, with planning and fresh merchandising a vital component for ensuring a more streamlined store layout post recession. Working entirely on interior fit-outs, the Surestyle team prefer to leave the store layout to the design team, working closely with them in the process of fitting out a store to maximize its potential. “Our fit outs are popular with our clients as we utilise standard fittings with custom joinery to personalise it” reveals Bradshaw. With fashion retailers having a shift in stock positioning each week and weekly (and sometimes daily) deliveries, versatility is a major priority. “It’s a cost effective way of replenishing tired fit outs, so we try to make sure re-merchandising solutions and fit-outs are light and not too bulky.This allows stores versatility as well as mobility around the shop floor, and give visual merchandisers the chance to change their fit outs whenever they feel like the need for a fresh look”. The team at mei + picci also believes that sticking to some basic rules for a cohesive and pleasing fit-out will benefit you in the long run. “It is important to keep a clear idea of how you want your store to look, and keep it looking that way.Make sure fixtures and finishes are complementary and work for your needs. Many of the wall systems at mei + picchi have an extensive range of accessories that are also compatible with floor gondola units, which means you’ll get a versatile system &#40;and more for your money&#41;. By paying attention to details, like effective use of ticketing, and using the right size and shape hangers to suit different types of garments, you will reap the benefits. Plan the merchandising of your store to suit your garments and select designated areas to focus on key items. Also make sure you have fun with your window space, as this is often the first impression new and potential customers will get of your offer. Invest in merchandising tools, like cubes, tension poles, poster hanging and risers to give you the freedom to create interesting displays.”A time to de-clutter and re-organise It’s just a matter of keeping things simple. Shoppers want to negotiate their way through simplified store layouts with much wider aisles and a varied merchandise selection, making their purchase with ease without being bombarded with clutter. “I think shop layout in New Zealand is just a little crowded and I like a little more space personally, where you don’t quite feel that you are navigating an obstacle course “ says Wilkin-Holland. “You really do have to watch where you step sometimes here or else you are going to bump something over. I think this adds an un-ease that could be solved by making entering a store more open and with wider lead off. The USA does this really well, and while I know there is the rental per metre, there is also more importantly, the fact that if people are more at ease they will stay longer and shop longer.”The need to de-clutter and streamline also extends into the online arena, with websites becoming increasingly slick and sophisticated operations of their own. Owner and director of Sphere Design Capsule (SDC), Zayne Francis, is looking forward to providing a fresh perspective on its range of services for 2010, including Sphere’s new website. “With the opening of the new showroom drawing near, we are re-launching a new website for those who can’t visit the showroom in person. Our product range has enhanced, the new look mannequins and shop fittings range at SDC will always continue to grow” reveals Francis. “The new website showcases an easy to navigate crisp clean look with more product, more info and best of all, more images. Visual merchandising is what we are all about at the end of the day. For those who have not already seen it, it will also show our slightly refreshed logo and new look 2010 branding. Shortly after the site has been launched a walk through video of the new showroom and short but interesting video commentaries will be added. Moving with the times we have also added in a Facebook page, set up for Skype so you can talk to us face to face over the web and a few other little things that just make life that little bit more easy. Let’s face it we have busy lives and the faster we can get things sorted the better for all.”Innovation and Identity The team at mei + picchi are also always on the lookout for new products to add to the already extensive range on offer as one of the most comprehensive retailing systems providers in Australia and New Zealand. mei + picchi’s heavy duty two-way and four-way racks in chrome or satin chrome finish will seamlessly complement any existing fixtures, including standard racks, and are ideal for displaying heavier clothing such as coats and jackets. Two-way racks feature one straight and one stepped arm, while four-way racks are supplied with four straight arms.Conveniently, extra arms can be purchased individually to change the orientation of your racks to suit your specific display needs. Nesting tables are an all new product for the mei + picchi Essentials range, and are available in chrome or satin chrome finish with a white top.Available in two sizes, these tables are an affordable way to create a sophisticated display. While suitable for use individually, using multiple tables together creates depth and adds an eye-catching new dimension to your display. “Our brand new Essentials catalogue is out now, and has an exciting new look and format, making it a great resource when planning your fit-out” explain the mei + picchi team. “The Essentials range is forever changing and being updated to include new products, and there will be an exciting selection of new additions released mid-year. At mei + picchi we are always on the lookout for new and improved products to complement our existing range. Highlight ranges are also a regular part of mei + picchi’s Essentials range throughout the year, and feature limited edition, on trend merchandising products at great prices for something fresh and different.”The Flexi wall system is another product that the team at Surestyle are excited about. With the option of satin chrome, or powder coated frames, the versatile Flexiwall system is sleek and sophisticated, the perfect enhancement to any fashion related store. “There is a lot of neat acrylics and new colours coming out at the moment” explains Bradshaw. “I also try and attend trade events that benefit our business as I think our clients benefit from us continuing to develop and research new products. There is the Euroshop event that occurs every three years in Germany, which is an international trade fair for retail, shop fitting, store equipment, store design and sales promotions.” Enhancing the brand identity is also at the forefront of strengthening the services and encouraging more innovation at Purfex with Wilkin-Holland actively involved in the Heroic Gardens festival next month. Last year, Wilkin-Holland utilised Purfex product for a religious themed garden. “Our garden is in Heroic Garden again this year, and while much Purfex product is used in the garden as well, it is for a very good cause – The New Zealand Hospice.”Price vs. the environment Despite the push for businesses’ to become more environmentally friendly with the way they do their business from tracking its carbon footprint to research and development of eco-friendly materials, the truth of the matter is, retailers are looking at what will be the most cost effective option at the end of the day. “There is more awareness of the option to ‘go green’ and we do offer eco friendly materials in our services, however this isn’t’ exactly the first thing people think about. Getting the best option at a good price is far more important’ explains Bradshaw. In 2007, The Sustainable Design Forum released an e-book that highlighted the challenges and opportunities facing the design and construction industry in the ‘greening economy’. Titled Environmental Sustainability: Collaboration and Marketing Best Practices in the Building Industry, the raises awareness about environmental sustainability in design re-enforcing the idea that sustainable design is energy efficient and help companies leverage their expertise for competitive advantage. However, this year will be an indicator as to whether or not an eco-friendly product will ever trump the cheapest price.The time is now… Apparel readers have been writing in to question the necessity of investing in shop fixtures and display solutions and the common question is the timing of revamping and how often this needs to be looked at. “Stores need to re-asses their display solutions at least every five years” says Surestyle. “However, it’s easier now for people to make small changes every week, so we make it easier for people to re-invent their displays according to their themes or seasonal product.” After a weak economy, business is picking up again for most TCF related retailers, so it’s about inviting new customers and re-acquainting old and existing ones. “I think there is still a certain amount of caution out there, even though it is much better trading than this time last year. There are new people starting up shops and seeing the opportunity of times when others have left the field – I remember Fraser and I buying Purfex in times like this with everybody saying that you shouldn’t” says Wilkin-Holland. “New Zealanders are traditionally conservative and it is our job to present through our showroom, website and marketing the possibilities of difference and how to make their presence in the market different from their competition – custom production is our specialty and obviously people appreciate this – we are still making mannequins and forms here in New Zealand after 70+ years.”]]></description>
<pubDate>25-02-2010</pubDate>
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<title>Princess of punk</title>
<link>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/princess-of-punk/201/</link>
<guid>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/princess-of-punk/201/</guid>
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This year’s iD Dunedin Fashion Week will get a serious dose of cool Britannia, with the arrival of Zandra Rhodes, one of the new wave of British designers who put London at the forefront of the international fashion scene in the 1970s.Zandra Rhodes was born in Kent in the 1940’s and was introduced to the world of fashion by her mother, who was a fitter in a Paris fashion house and a teacher at Medway College of Art. Zandra studied first at Medway and then at the Royal College of Art in London. Her major area of study was textile design. Her early textile fashion designs were considered too outrageous by the traditional British manufacturers, so in 1969, she established her own retail outlet in the fashionable Fulham Road in West London. Zandra’s own lifestyle has proved to be as dramatic, glamorous and extroverted as her designs. With her bright green hair (later changed to a spectacular pink and sometimes a radiant red), theatrical makeup and art jewelry, she has stamped her identity on the international world of fashion.What are you looking forward to seeing when coming down for iD Dunedin in March? I am looking forward to seeing new and vibrant ideas in a fantastic vibrant city that I have been learning all about in advance of my trip.How much reality should be involved in student work- should they be encouraged to highlight their creativity, or strongly consider design that’s commercially viable? How do you think they should balance these two elements?&nbsp;Every person has to be honest to their self, honest to their soul. If you are a conservative person then play to your strengths of classic and conservation. If the students natural talent is some new form of self expression then to suppress this would be sad and defeatist!What do you know about New Zealand Fashion? I know very little as my two previous visits were so full, one as judge for wearable art and the other for variety clubs international. At this time I was an incognito tourist and visited Piano beach and the fabulous Maori exhibits at the large museum there and saw the fabulous Victorian Maori paintings.You’ve been involved in a lot of educational lectures over the years. Is education, research and development something you feel passionate about? It is only through education that talent and design is passed on to future generations. I have been lucky enough to have my voice heard now I must also give back.What’s in store for Zandra Rhodes in 2010? 2010 is about to be the most exciting year yet! There will be two exhibitions of my work in San Diego: One on AIDA at the Athenaeum library; and then Zandra Rhodes: A Life Long Love Affair with Textiles at Mingei International Museum (a retrospective exhibition). I also have several fabulous licences being launched: -Millets www.millets.com turquoise Zandra Rhodes patterned wellies and camping chair etc topped with printed teepee -Marks and Spencer - www.marksandspencer.com Ladies wear, children’s wear, bed linen and tableware -Strutt - Zandra Rhodes Shoes -Portal Worldwide - Zandra Rhodes bags Apart from licensing I still do my fabulous collection twice a year. I do not always do a catwalk show because it doesn’t always achieve the objective. Most of the time I deal on a one to one basis with my clients like Helen Mirren and Princess Michael of Kent.]]></description>
<pubDate>25-02-2010</pubDate>
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<title>Two Of the best</title>
<link>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/two-of-the-best/200/</link>
<guid>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/two-of-the-best/200/</guid>
<description><![CDATA[
The demands to be met with corporate and school apparel are very high. The customer expects the very best quality, a competitive price and a quick delivery all at a reasonable cost.The challenge to do this can be assisted by utilising two Melbourne based companies who have years of experience in supplying low minimums of specialised product. Hawes and Freer have been working with Noone Imagewear for the supply of corporate and school ties and with Defab for specialist fabrics. Defab specialise in wool, wool / polyester and polyester / viscose fabrics. Most of the production is based on their customers’8 own designs. A full ‘Scotweave’ CAD service is available which gives an accurate hard copy of how your design will look when finished. With a lead time of eight to ten weeks, and minimums as low as four pieces, Defab are seeing their business increase. This is supplemented with a stock service on plain wool / polyester and polyester / viscose cloths. Their weaving mill is the most up to date in Australasia with eleven new looms recently installed. The one critical factor for corporate wear fabrics is durability and performance. Defab test all their fabrics to ensure they exceed industry standards for abrasion, pilling, colour fastness and shrinkage. With sourcing of low minimum high quality fabric becoming more difficult Defab are providing an excellent option. Noone Imagewear are involved with both corporate wear and schoolwear. Their specialist tie manufacturing division is unique in that they have the only jacquard tie weaving mill in Australasia. What this means for clients is that they can have their own tie design woven then made, giving flexibility with its 36 tie minimum. The full CAD facility allows clients to see how their tie design will look prior to production at no cost. Delivery is efficient and reliable, with deliveries made within four to five weeks and pricing very competitive as there is no duty payable for products made in Australia.]]></description>
<pubDate>25-02-2010</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>Looking Ahead</title>
<link>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/looking-ahead/199/</link>
<guid>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/looking-ahead/199/</guid>
<description><![CDATA[
The apparel industry is strongly influenced by what’s currently in vogue, yet buyers must all work several months – or even years – in advance. We talk to two people who both need to think ahead, but each in very different ways. By Amy HamiltonWhat’s going to be hot for 2011? If you’re in the apparel industry, chances are that somebody at your business needs to know. When you work in apparel, you know that the time between seeing a sample, ordering a garment and having it available to your customers can vary enormously. It’s possible to get that time down to just a few days in extreme cases, whereas it can be more like a year or 18 months on big international brands.For the average kiwi apparel business, planning needs to be done at least one season in advance (often two), presenting challenges and opportunities for buyers and customers. Get it right, and your store is offering garments that are bang on trend, or – even better – a brand-new hard-to-find must-have item. There are a few ways to get it right, but there are many more ways to get it wrong. You don’t want to choose items that are no longer in fashion or miss out on the next big thing. You don’t want to order something so cutting edge that it won’t be fashionable for another year and customers might not be willing to take such a big risk. The problems inherent in trying to choose a range in advance is one that different types of apparel companies meet in a range of ways. For small Auckland-based boutique store Children of Vision, it’s a matter of art meets life. Children of Vision is owned by James Dobson and Vicky Chan, and they have tagged their store as “a fearless supporters of all that is avant garde, intellectual and unusual.” For that reason, Dobson explains, trends don’t always feature heavily on his radar when he’s picking clothes for the coming season.Dobson is travelling to London and Paris in March to do the winter buying for Children of Vision, looking at what’s happening in the Northern Hemisphere winter. The clothes he chooses then will be arriving in store from July. He and Chan will also be attending Sydney Fashion Week at the start of May for the Southern Hemisphere summer collections. They’ll be buying for summer 2010/2011, with those items starting to arrive in store in August.With lower volumes of items he says that the turnaround is quicker than it might be with a big global brand dealing in millions of units: “I wouldn’t say that we necessarily say that we sit down and do research or trend forecasting. That’s not a consideration for us; a lot of the big chain stores have to predict seasons in advance, but we don’t have that dilemma.”When choosing what to buy for the store, Dobson explains that the ideas and influences come from a huge variety of sources. Firstly, he explains, they always revisit the designers that are currently stocked at Children of Vision to see what those designers are doing. “Then it’s a matter of staying on top of emerging labels through reading magazines, looking at blogs and talking to people on the ground in the major cities to see what’s coming through. We are increasingly starting to travel with the store; when we’re in Europe we might go to a few trade shows that are renowned for younger edgier labels.”The boutique has several important loyal customers, says Dobson, and when he’s debating the purchase of an item those names will often come up in conversation, “but at the same time you just have to go with new unproven things,” he adds.Dobson and Chan each use their own personal taste to influence their buying choices. “I’m looking for darker, edgier and more sculptural,” Dobson says, “while Vicky’s style is prettier and quirkier.” Their aim is to create an overall store collection that is cohesive, yet mixes their respective styles. That buying process couldn’t be more different from what happens at Puma New Zealand, the local headquarters of the major international street and sportswear brand. At Puma, selection starts from drawings of samples that are sent out to all Puma branches internationally, with the buyers choosing from an utterly enormous number of ranges and styles. There are literally hundreds of ranges, from brand-linked ranges like Ferrari and Ducati, to children’s apparel to headwear to footwear – as well as plenty of men’s and women’s apparel.Having chosen the samples to be ordered, explains women’s apparel co-ordinator Petra Eatson, it’s around a year before those items will be available in stores. In late January, for instance, she helped to choose samples for the first quarter of 2011. Those samples will arrive in about May, orders will be in by July and then the Puma team have about six months to sell the ranges into stores.“You’ve got to know what’s coming,” Eatson emphasises. “You have to keep up to date with what’s in fashion and what way trends are moving. Even the most basic sports gear changes. You need to know about the lengths and widths of tee-shirts and the most popular styles and shapes for all types of apparel. Then you’ve got to think about the details. Will it be patterns or applications? Are glitters or foils going to be in? Or maybe it will be pigments or flock, or stripes. If it’s stripes, will they be yarndyed or printed stripes?”The in-house buyers who deal with the most edgy sportswear keep up-to-date mainly through international blogs and websites, Eatson explains, signing up to mailing lists that help buyers to pinpoint future trends. For sportswear, she says, it’s a little simpler – because Puma doesn’t follow the fashion, it is the fashion. If she wants to know what’s in fashion, “we can gauge from what we’re given,” she says. “Compared to other big sportswear labels, we are the lifestyle brand – the brand that can be relied on to come up with the cool, different things. That’s the Puma stamp: quirky but wearable, so people know its Puma. The head office is very up with the play; if they send it that’s what will be in.”]]></description>
<pubDate>25-02-2010</pubDate>
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<title>Keith Matheson Style arbiter</title>
<link>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/keith-matheson-style-arbiter/198/</link>
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<description><![CDATA[
Keith Matheson will most importantly be remembered as an arbiter of taste, style and design. With the closing down of his Auckland stores early this year, Apparel looks back on over 30 years as an iconic fashion figure in New Zealand. By Dan AhwaMany of today’s’ design talents have become media darlings overnight. Young, starry eyed and precocious, this new generation of fashion designer has been hoisted out of their back room design studios and into the limelight, profiled in magazines and pushed into PR activities that often create more hype than their design skills are actually worth. Quietly and confidently over the years, Keith Matheson is one name that has not always been a public figure, however the name itself has become synonymous with style, design, taste and sophistication.What began in 1971 as Jeanmakers and established in Chapel Street, Melbourne before moving home in 1977 to Durham Street East, Auckland – The roots of the Keith Matheson brand began in the designing, manufacture and selling of its legendary jeans, moleskins and windcheaters. In a society that has a mostly relaxed dress code, the transition into the New Zealand market was a welcome influence for many, as the brand quickly became a household name known for its broad collection of fashion, from casual chic to the height of sophistication, successfully evolving into the established fashion house it has since become known for.In 1981, the burgeoning label moved to Wellington, and soon relocated to ‘the corner’ (53 High Street), the five storey building that would be the hub of the business for many years to come. 1983 saw a store in Christchurch and the renaming of the business in 1985 to KEITH MATHESON; reflecting the shift in emphasis from urbanwear to more tailored clothing. Driven by Matheson’s personal style and philosophy – to create collections that set trends as opposed to following them. With the deregulation of the apparel industry, Australian expansion started with the first store in 1990 in Skygarden, Sydney - and with this store, a new image for the entire business was launched. A second Sydney store opened in 1991 in Oxford Street, Paddington, followed by a return to Melbourne in 1993 with the opening of the Como Centre store and in 1999 the fourth store in the Chadstone Centre.As an arbiter of taste and style, Matheson also sold top international brands such as John Smedley fine English knitwear, Blumarine Italian bags, Armani and Moschino ties and scarves, women’s Italian knitwear from Franca Pierpaoli and Le Twin Set, leatherwear by Calvalero, fragrance by Paul Smith, Tateossian Cufflinks, Goorin Bros Hats, Borselino Panama Hats and Passarella Death Club t-shirts. These brands not only complemented the Keith Matheson collection, but also enhanced the lifestyle aspect of dressing, encouraging his customers to make an extra effort when it came down to personal style. Those familiar with the Keith Matheson brand, appreciate the quality of the brands handwriting, especially with the launch of the Luxury Wear collection in 2001 which utilised fabrics sourced from the most discerning mills in Italy. These unique, limited edition garments embodied the desirability, exclusivity and sophistication that the brand evoked.Towards the end of 2008, an unfortunate event occurred that prompted Matheson to retire from the fashion industry after more than 30 years in the trade. The Parnell head office was engulfed in a fire which had destroyed many of Matheson’s samples, fabrics and decades of designs including some of Keith’s most memorable pieces. As the majority owner and shareholder, Matheson’s made the tough decision to call it quits. Bowing out of the industry the same way he entered it- with style and dignity, quietly exiting to focus on a new chapter in his life. “It was a life-changing event, and I made the decision to have an honourable closing,” said Matheson in an interview with The New Zealand Herald in 2008. “I’ve enjoyed it, I’ve done it well and I’ve worked with some fantastic people and that’s enough. I’m 61, I’ve done it for 32 years. The sign was there. That’s enough. I’m satisfied with what I have done, what I have achieved and what I’ve got back from the rag trade. It’s been a great ride.”]]></description>
<pubDate>25-02-2010</pubDate>
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<title>Scouting a new generation</title>
<link>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/scouting-a-new-generation/197/</link>
<guid>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/scouting-a-new-generation/197/</guid>
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Described as a “talent goldmine” by Vogue.com, one of the UK’s most prestigious and innovative driving force behind emerging design talent, The Vauxhall Fashion Scout, will again be highlighted at London Fashion Week 2010. Apparel talks exclusively to Martyn Roberts, founder and director of the event, and avid supporter of young design talent.Emerging design awards have proven to be a crucial platform for any emerging or semi-established designer looking to garner the right amount of attention from fashion media, potential buyers and design houses looking for fresh talent. As the driving force behind innovative designers, Vauxhall Fashion Scout selects the finest designers and showcases their talents and designs to a global audience. What is most rewarding about the experience is the fact that it focuses on mentoring throughout the year and beyond London Fashion Week, creating a successful and sustainable fashion business. Along with mentoring and showcasing at LFW, opportunities such as showcasing at other fashion events around the world, including Shanghai Fashion Week, are also implemented into the programme.After working for the likes of Karen Walker and Zambesi in the past, Roberts set out to London and teamed up with London’s best known show producer, John Walford to provide a platform for younger designs to showcase their craft. “We realised that innovative designers needed a high quality yet affordable venue to showcase their designs during London Fashion Week. We had done it before – showcasing a number of designers including Zambesi in a fantastic 1930’s carpark a few seasons earlier” explains Roberts. “After our first season I realised that much more potential if we developed it into an event – which we did. I contacted potential sponsors and convinced Vauxhall (General Motors UK) to come on board – and Vauxhall Fashion Scout was born.” Described as a ‘talent goldmine’ by vogue.com, the Fashion Scout has since showcased over 130 emerging designers over the past seven seasons; including Peter Pilotto, Felder Felder, Spijkers en Spijkers, William Tempest, David Koma, Avsh Alom Gur, Jens Laugesen &amp; Cooperative Designs. Returning this season is the hotly anticipated Merit Award which is selected by a panel of experts and awards the winner with a generous three season deal including a fully sponsored catwalk show during LFW plus free London Exhibition and Paris Showroom.At the Spring Summer Haute Couture shows last January, US Vogue’s editor-in-chief Anna Wintour held a meeting with Paris Vogue editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld and French industry minister Christian Estrosi to discuss ways in which the French could better support their younger designers. Known as the hub for supporting young design talent through initiatives such as the Council of Fashion Designer Awards (CFDA) in the USA, New York has become a shining example of an industry backing its designers with full force. France has recently come under fire for its lack of support for its young design talent, and the meeting is an example of how global fashion industries are working towards better supporting its industry. Estrosi has planned for a state-owned bank to offer financing for fashion start-ups, with more details to come by the end of March; As well as relaxing the country’s 35-hour work week for fashion house employees who need to work twice that amount in the weeks leading up to the fashion shows. “We are also very excited this season to announce our presence at Paris Fashion Week, with our brand new showroom based in the centre of Marais” says Roberts, who knows only too well the importance of motivating its industry to show more support. “At first the British Fashion Council was very cautious about our initiative and tried to keep us at a distance. We all think they thought we were trying to do the same as they did but we were creating a new type of organisation that showcases and helps emerging designers. The media and the industry have got completely behind us – our selection panel includes people from vogue.com, Browns Focus and Dazed Digital. We have a whole range of experts from across the industry who work with us mentoring emerging designers. With an aim to create a platform for New Zealand designers, the Vauxhall Fashion Scout is a platform for our young designers to consider. “I have worked with Karen Walker and Zambesi in the past. We are already planning to showcase Chinese, Danish and Swedish designers in September. I would truly love to show the best New Zealand designers to the world” says Roberts. “Most fashion colleges don’t prepare designers on how to develop their business. Fashion is very different to art – designers need to have awareness of business and how the industry works.” For further information on the Vauxhall Fashion Scout, visit www.vauxhallfashionscout.co.uk]]></description>
<pubDate>25-02-2010</pubDate>
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<title>Like a ship without a rudder</title>
<link>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/like-a-ship-without-a-rudder/196/</link>
<guid>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/like-a-ship-without-a-rudder/196/</guid>
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What is the future of fashion in New Zealand? What will the local industry look like 10 years down the track? Can we even see that far ahead? One thing is clear, we need a solid game plan and we need it now. BY MAPIHI OPAI, executive officer, Fashion Industry New Zealand (FINZ)It should come as no surprise that the fashion and apparel sector is not considered ‘a good return on investment’ from a Government perspective. Yes, the industry’s made some remarkable creative and cultural contributions – undoubtedly so. But, in economic terms, it hasn’t grown as much or as fast as ‘the powers that be’ have been hankering for. Once on par with wine, which recently clocked NZ$1 billion in exports, apparel is now seen to be lagging behind.The point is that we need to turn things around and change this perception. The vision for the sector, as well as spending on its behalf, has largely been disjointed and determined behind closed doors. Well, it’s time for the industry to be proactive rather than reactive. What exactly do we want? What are we willing to do en masse to make this happen? And, what are we willing to just let slide away?Things have changed, most of all the country of origin. Based on the paltry industry-specific statistics that do exist, the local scene is one of dwindling manufacturing and employment, and relatively static exports. Then again, quantifying the sector’s true value is mostly guesswork when you have so little to go on.For example, Kiwi firms are manufacturing garments overseas in increasing volume and value, and more of them are shipping goods direct to international markets. This stuff never touches New Zealand soil, so nobody knows much about it. However, we contacted some leading apparel exporters independently and the combined wholesale value of this ‘remote’ product for the last financial year was NZ$230 million across three companies alone.As I see it, we need to find out more about what’s happening in this area, because the figures would be illuminating in terms of the industry’s true size, shape and potential. And, research that sheds new light on the subject seems justified, as opposed to reports that simply regurgitate tired old facts.We also need to maintain our domestic manufacturing infrastructure – a ‘staircase’ to offshore production at the very least. Nearly all of our ‘apparel success stories’ started out making locally and we want to see more of them. Crawl, walk and then run.Fundamental business and export nous also needs to improve. Granted, creativity and commerce can often be at odds in the fashion sector, but it’s called ‘the business of fashion’ for a damn good reason.There’s no mistaking that the industry is a highly interdependent ecosystem. But, this pond has seen more rape and pillage than perpetuation in recent years. At some stage, we all need to think about paying it forward, rather than passing the buck or trying to squeeze it out of the next guy in the supply chain.All in all, we have the talent, passion and determination. What FINZ needs now, as an organisation, is a core group of strong companies behind us, particularly those who have benefited from their association with the industry and are committed to ensuring that it has a strong future.]]></description>
<pubDate>25-02-2010</pubDate>
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<title>Take your pick</title>
<link>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/take-your-pick/195/</link>
<guid>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/take-your-pick/195/</guid>
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For the past 18 months we have been in an employer market meaning that there were more people looking for jobs than jobs available. We are now seeing the market is changing back to an employee market. By Gaye Harford.In September last year we wrote an article asking employers to be mindful of their staff, where they were at and how they were performing. Although business was not easy we urged employers to value their staff and even though increases in salary may not be possible there are other ways to show appreciation. We felt at that time when the market changed those employees who were not happy or appreciated would start to move.From the beginning of the year we have noticed that the market has changed. Our phones are ringing with jobs again. It has taken four short weeks for the market to change from an employer market to an employee market. There are now a lot more jobs than there are talented candidates.We are noticing that most of the candidates that are coming in are still employed and are looking to change. The candidates who are looking for new roles, are the ones currently employed with companies who they feel, rightly or wrongly, are not appreciating, acknowledging, paying them what they are worth or that they are boxed in a position with nowhere to go.During the recession salaries paid in 2007/8 were not paid in 2009 and there was a significant reduction. Those candidates who accepted a position in 2009 sometimes accepted the position although the money was far less than they were used to earning. Our September 2009 article mentioned to clients that they would be wise to be mindful of that and when the market changed that they re-evaluate employees they value and bring them back into line with what they were originally being paid. Most candidates who took a drop in pay had designed their lifestyle around that amount and would obviously be very keen to get back to their previous lifestyle by being paid what the market is saying they are worth.If you have a stable team with talented people it is time now to start reviewing your employees looking closely at the ones you value. It is starting to get very competitive out there for good people and we can see once again there being s shortage of skilled technical people with off shore manufacturing experience.]]></description>
<pubDate>25-02-2010</pubDate>
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<title>Lawson Software</title>
<link>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/lawson-software/194/</link>
<guid>http://www.apparelmagazine.co.nz/news/view/news/lawson-software/194/</guid>
<description><![CDATA[
Chris Gourvelos joined Lawson’s Solution Sales team in 2006 where his focus is primarily on the fashion industry vertical across Australia and New Zealand (ANZ). A seasoned account executive, Chris has over 14 years of sales experience in the area of enterprise resource planning (ERP) software solutions. His passion for making Lawson’s fashion industry customers stronger recently rose to new heights after Chris signed the first Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) deal in ANZ with a division of Sydney-based true alliance, one of the largest distributors of sport and fashion brands in the ANZ market. Congratulations, Chris!]]></description>
<pubDate>25-02-2010</pubDate>
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